In 2020, compelled by the restrictions of the pandemic (bye-bye, monthly salon appointment), I made the decision to embrace my natural curls. Once this journey began, I realized I had little idea what I was getting myself into. The world of curly haircare is filled with products, conflicting advice from both pros and fellow curly-haired folks and so much trial and error.
After three months of that aforementioned trial and error, I found a routine that gave me a wash ’n' go style that worked for me. But recently, about nine months after my last cut, my curls started to look uneven, limp, and straggly at the ends. With each wash, I noticed more breakage, and my hair felt drier. There just wasn't a whole lot of bounce. It was time to rethink my curl plan.
The hardest part was wondering what was or wasn’t normal and healthy for my hair. But that's why we have experts, so I booked an appointment with New York City master curl artist Candace Witherspoon. I've been following Witherspoon on Instagram since I went natural and have always loved her work. Once I was in her chair, she not only cut, washed, and styled my hair, but shared her wealth of curl knowledge. Here are the tips and products that have helped me achieve a gorgeous wash ’n' go, and they'll help you, too.
Consider getting a curly cut with a curl specialist.
Now I see that it makes all the difference. Witherspoon cut my curls while my hair was dry so she could sculpt a flattering shape, and then refined it after washing and styling. She says a cut designed for curls will not only enhance the bounce and vitality of each curl, but will also create the most flattering shape. Another reason to see a curling pro regularly: Witherspoon noticed that the front of my hair grew faster than the back, which can make a cut look out of shape if I don’t trim regularly. She recommended making an appointment every four months.
Know your texture to pick the right products. (You likely have more than one.)
As Witherspoon divided my hair into sections and began to snip the ends, she was able to see my hair's quirks. She explained that the back of my head had tighter curls, while the front was much looser. This knowledge helped her determine which products I should use (keep reading for her picks).
Focus on your biggest hair concern.
“A lot of people waste money on products that aren't right for them,” Witherspoon says (guilty as charged). To choose the best formulas for you, focus on what your hair needs at the moment. If it's feeling dry, like mine, use a hydrating shampoo and products with a lot of slip. She says to look for natural ingredients like aloe, jojoba, okra gel, and a water-soluble polymer called polyquaternium-7.
If you're experiencing breakage, Witherspoon suggests using a conditioner that contains proteins—look for a strengthening or bond-building formula. When clients complain that their curls just won’t curl anymore, she suggests a detox shampoo, such as K18 Peptide Prep, to give your hair a clean slate. If you're unsure what to use, the best way to avoid costly experimenting is to see a curl specialist who can put together a customized curly cocktail of products and teach you how to use them.
For definition, use water—and then more water.
You've rinsed out your shampoo and conditioner and stepped out of the shower. Now, you’ve got to keep your hair wet during the styling process. “Separate your hair into large sections and apply a lightweight leave-in conditioner to each as you sprinkle on water with your hands. Then repeat the process with both a styling cream and a curl product. Now, separating the hair into smaller sections, rake or shingle your gel through each, adding drops of water as you go," Witherspoon says. "Water opens your hair's cuticles, which helps to work these products into your hair so it stays hydrated and frizz-free.”
Don't disrupt the drying process.
Touching the curls or even moving around too much while hair is setting can ruffle up cuticles and cause frizz. When Witherspoon finished forming my curls, she applied hairspray, then had me sit under a hooded dryer for 50 minutes. Afterward, she used a diffuser to finish drying and give my defined and healthy curls extra oomph. This was the first time I'd ever seen my curls completely frizz-free—and, with Witherspoon's help, I can keep them that way, even on days I don't have time for the dryer.
Clarifying Shampoo
Uncle Funky's Daughter Squeaky Clarifying Cleanser
Witherspoon recommends having a few shampoos on hand so you can reach for what you need most on wash day. This is what I grab when my hair feels like it has some product build-up. The tingly formula leaves my curls clean and refreshed.
Gentle Shampoo
When my hair feels dry, I opt for this formula made for coarse hair; it's gentle enough for coils and deeply hydrating with organic avocado oil, shea butter, and tamanu oil.
Witherspoon likes this conditioner because it has a lot of slip thanks to avocado and rice bran oils as well as shea butter. After cleansing, I apply it throughout the hair, wait a few minutes, and then rinse.
Leave-In Conditioner
INNERSENSE Sweet Spirit Leave In Conditioner
After the shower, I divide my wet hair into large sections and apply this leave-in conditioner. You can use this to refresh your curls throughout the week, too.
With my hair still in large sections, I add a bit of this styling potion (a little goes a long way) to help define curls and prevent frizz.
This is my holy grail product! It's made such a difference in keeping my curls formed and defined. Apply with drops of water through each section.
This locks your curls into place. Be sure to mix in water as you work the product thoroughly through small sections.
Shelby Copeland
Associate Editor
Shelby Copeland is an associate editor and the assistant to O's editor-at-large, Gayle King. When she's not in assistant mode or writing for Oprah Daily, she loves spending her time listening to music and podcasts, reading, re-watching old sitcoms, and eating Cinnabons at brunch.